Fashion in the Gilded Age: 1870-1890

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Fashion in the Gilded Age: 1870-1890

The period between 1870 and 1890, often referred to as the Gilded Age, was a time of immense social and economic change in the Western world. This era witnessed the rise of industrialization, urbanization, and burgeoning wealth, all of which profoundly impacted fashion trends. The styles of this period, characterized by extravagance, elaborate details, and a distinct emphasis on femininity, reflected the era’s values and aspirations.

The Silhouette: A Flourishing of Form

The defining silhouette of the 1870s and 1880s was the "S-bend" or "hourglass" figure. This dramatic curve was achieved through the use of corsets, which compressed the waist and pushed the bust forward, creating a pronounced S-shape. The corset, a ubiquitous garment for women of all social classes, was a symbol of femininity and respectability, highlighting the importance of a slim waist and ample bosom in the societal ideals of the time.

Skirts, voluminous and often reaching the floor, were supported by numerous layers of petticoats and crinolines. These layers created a wide, bell-shaped silhouette, further accentuating the narrow waist. The bustle, a padded structure worn at the back of the skirt, further emphasized the dramatic curve of the figure, adding volume and height to the rear.

The Evolution of Dress

The 1870s saw the popularity of the "polonaise" style, a short-waisted jacket with a fitted bodice and a flowing skirt. This style often featured a peplum, a short, gathered ruffle, at the waistline. As the decade progressed, the "princess" style emerged, characterized by a single, flowing garment with no defined waistline. This style was seen as more practical and streamlined, reflecting the growing emphasis on comfort and practicality in fashion.

The 1880s witnessed a shift towards more fitted styles, with the bust and hips emphasized. The "basque" bodice, a fitted jacket with a pointed waist, became popular, further accentuating the S-bend silhouette. The "cuirass" bodice, a tightly fitting garment that emphasized the bust and shoulders, also gained traction, reflecting a growing interest in showcasing the female form.

The Importance of Textiles and Trims

The era saw the widespread use of luxurious fabrics, such as silk, satin, velvet, and lace. These materials, often imported from Europe, were symbols of wealth and status. Elaborate trims, including ribbons, bows, ruffles, and fringes, were used to embellish garments, further adding to their opulence.

The use of color was also significant. Darker colors, such as black, navy blue, and brown, were favored for daywear, while lighter colors, such as pastels, were reserved for eveningwear. The emergence of synthetic dyes allowed for a wider range of colors, contributing to the vibrancy and variety of fashion during this period.

Men’s Fashion: A Shift Towards Practicality

While women’s fashion focused on extravagance and ornamentation, men’s fashion shifted towards practicality and functionality. The 1870s saw the rise of the "lounge suit," a three-piece suit consisting of a jacket, waistcoat, and trousers. This style, characterized by its loose fit and simple design, was practical for the increasingly urban lifestyle of the time.

The "Prince Albert" coat, a long, double-breasted coat with a high collar, was popular for formal occasions. The "Norfolk" jacket, a short, loose-fitting jacket with a belted waist, was favored for outdoor activities.

Accessories: Completing the Look

Accessories played a crucial role in completing the fashion of the Gilded Age. Hats were an essential part of both men’s and women’s attire. Women’s hats were often elaborate and adorned with feathers, flowers, and ribbons. Men’s hats included the bowler hat, the top hat, and the fedora.

Gloves were also an important accessory, worn by both men and women. Gloves were often made of leather, silk, or cotton and were seen as a symbol of elegance and sophistication. Jewelry, particularly brooches, necklaces, and earrings, were also popular, reflecting the era’s love for embellishment and ornamentation.

The Influence of Social Class

Fashion in the Gilded Age was heavily influenced by social class. The wealthy elite, with access to the finest fabrics and skilled tailors, could afford to indulge in elaborate and extravagant styles. The middle class, striving to emulate the upper class, adopted simplified versions of the prevailing trends. The working class, with limited resources, often made do with simpler, more practical garments.

The Rise of Department Stores

The emergence of department stores in the late 19th century revolutionized the way people shopped for clothing. These large, multi-story retail spaces offered a wide variety of goods, from clothing and accessories to furniture and home goods. The department store model, with its focus on display and customer service, contributed to the increasing commercialization of fashion.

FAQs

Q: What were the most popular colors in fashion during the Gilded Age?

A: Darker colors, such as black, navy blue, and brown, were favored for daywear, while lighter colors, such as pastels, were reserved for eveningwear. The emergence of synthetic dyes allowed for a wider range of colors, contributing to the vibrancy and variety of fashion during this period.

Q: What was the significance of the corset in fashion during this time?

A: The corset, a ubiquitous garment for women of all social classes, was a symbol of femininity and respectability, highlighting the importance of a slim waist and ample bosom in the societal ideals of the time.

Q: How did men’s fashion differ from women’s fashion in the Gilded Age?

A: While women’s fashion focused on extravagance and ornamentation, men’s fashion shifted towards practicality and functionality. The rise of the "lounge suit" reflected the increasingly urban lifestyle of the time.

Q: What role did accessories play in fashion during the Gilded Age?

A: Accessories played a crucial role in completing the fashion of the Gilded Age. Hats, gloves, and jewelry were essential elements, reflecting the era’s love for embellishment and ornamentation.

Q: How did social class influence fashion in the Gilded Age?

A: Fashion in the Gilded Age was heavily influenced by social class. The wealthy elite could afford to indulge in elaborate and extravagant styles, while the middle and working classes adopted simplified versions or more practical garments.

Tips

For aspiring fashion designers:

• Study the silhouettes and details of Gilded Age fashion to understand the era’s aesthetic and technical skills.
• Experiment with luxurious fabrics and embellishments to create garments that evoke the opulence of the period.
• Consider the social context of the era and how fashion reflected the values and aspirations of the time.

For fashion enthusiasts:

• Visit museums and historical societies to view original garments and accessories from the Gilded Age.
• Read books and articles about fashion history to gain a deeper understanding of the trends and influences of the period.
• Attend historical reenactments or costume parties to experience the fashion of the Gilded Age firsthand.

Conclusion

The fashion of the Gilded Age, with its emphasis on extravagance, ornamentation, and the creation of the "S-bend" silhouette, reflected the era’s values of wealth, status, and femininity. The period saw the rise of department stores and the commercialization of fashion, marking a significant shift in the way people shopped for clothing. The trends of this era continue to inspire designers and fashion enthusiasts today, reminding us of the enduring power of fashion to reflect and shape the social and cultural landscape of its time.

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